Novosibirsk- Russia

"Novosibirsk...consider stopping in Tomsk instead" lonely planet

We have exactly 24hours 20 minutes in Novosibirsk. Why we chose to stop here is a mystery. We researched and planned this about a year ago and have forgotten our reasoning. Maybe I should learn to write down my workings out. According to our guide book this city has little to offer, there is not even a hostel or cheap hotel. We have been force to book a small apartment for lots of money. We arrive down hearted and regretting this stop. But almost instantly I start to feel good about it. Its 2am and -14 this is the coldest I have ever been. We are met by the owner of the apartment, very nice guy and taken the short walk to the flat. As accommodation in Russia is quite expensive we have been staying in dorm rooms. This is a little boring when traveling as a couple, for the obvious reason, of course, but also because you are never alone, constantly trying not to wake others or being woken. Always watching your stuff, keeping it packed and locked away. The instant our packs hit the floor of the apartment they exploded spreading their contents over every surface and most of the floor, we had no one else to consider for 24 hours.

Novosibirsk turned out to be a long way from a disappointment. It's a real town with real people living their lives. Snow covered the grey, drab communist buildings. Hiding the ugliness and giving an illusion of purity. The main road ran from the train station and our apartment to the centre square with the grand, silver domed Opera house taking pride of place. The stage is the biggest in Russia and the audition possibly one of the grandest. Tonight’s showing is "Le Traviarta" and our research shows that tickets range from £2 to £20. The non-English speaking box-office lady offered us a selection of price options in the cheaper end of the scale, we pick the most expensive she offered at £8 thinking it would be midrange, maybe middle of the stalls or front of the balcony.

A nice lunch, little walk around the town and a failed attempt to find the rail museum fits in perfectly before cooking in our flat and then rugging back up before the walk to the opera.

Turns out going to the opera is quite a posh affair in the middle of Russia with everyone wearing 'their Sunday best'. Turns out £8 is a top priced ticket (once again lonely planet got it wrong) We were sat in the centre of the front row. Everyone in their nice dresses and suits. We were wearing snow boots, combat trousers and fleeces. I have seen many operas, some enjoyable, some soul destroying, but I have never seen one from the front row. Normally I would not pick such seats, Front row of the balcony will do for me, but it was great sitting there. I could pick out each individual instrument, listen to what they contributed and for some of them, watch. The show was good; the story is not all puppy dogs and fluffy clouds but well performed. It was bitterly cold on the walk back and the ice forced us to walk slowly. We showered, packed and got ready for another 28 hours on the train.

Fuck Lonely Planet. I would stop here again.